Chow, Baby: Wednesday, March 02, 2005
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Off the Rocks

A late February birthday makes Chow, Baby a Pisces, of course. (Defining characteristics of the Fish sign include (a) poor money management and (b) poor time management. Can’t fight it; it’s in the stars.) The question is, what do fish eat? “Smaller fish, you idiot,” said Chow, Baby’s blunt Leo buddy, and so we were off to Ocean Rock on Bluebonnet Circle.
Chow, Baby was a little wary, because its last Ocean Rock voyage was a sinker. But rumor had it — or perhaps Last Call mentioned it a few weeks ago, in a column that was undoubtedly turned in on time — that the restaurant has finally gotten its act together. ’Tis true. Oh, the menu still has some Razzoo’s-worthy cutesiness, but this time none of the seafood smelled funny. With no gazelle on the menu, the Leo ordered a bloody-rare steak Baja ($9.95), sliced tenderloin dressed with a cream sauce chock full of shrimp, crab, and crawfish. That was the Baja part, and after being snarly-warned that it would lose a finger if it tried for a second taste, Chow, Baby ordered a scoop for its baked tilapia Chardonnay ($8.75). Couldn’t taste the Chardonnay, perhaps because it was now overwhelmed by delicious Baja richness, but the fish was moist and flaky, cooked just right. Both lunches came with chunky garlic-mashed potatoes and nicely sautéed chunky vegetables.
Creative food, great service, and even the lovely Upscale Island décor (metal tables, comfy couches, bright ceramic tile) seems cleaner and brighter. Chow, Baby suspects there’s an efficient, attentive Virgo in charge of Ocean Rock these days.


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