Cafe Reviewed: Wednesday, February 23, 2005
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A meal fit for a gentleman of large appetite and little means: Reposados offers (clockwise from left) the fiesta sampler, avocado crab salad, martini azul, and fiesta platter for two. (Photo by Scott Latham)
Reposados Mexican Grill
Mexican shrimp
cocktail
$5.99
Avocado crab salad
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Green, White, and Rhett

Like Southern hospitality, the entrées at Reposados Mexican Grill, in Tara Village, are expansive.

By CHRISTOPHER WYNN

Though the Tara Village plantation-house-style building in which Reposados Mexican Grill sits suggests Scarlett O’Hara’s famous abode, the food will likely conjure sensations of a little farther south of the border. A good thing: The thought of biscuits and salsa is slightly off-putting.
The thought of another Mexican joint in a sea of them is also enough to give cause for pause. The good news is that while Reposados isn’t an unparalleled achievement, the place offers decent grub in a laid-back atmosphere and won’t drain you completely of your life savings.
The chips and salsa were a good indication of things to come. Each bite was a spicy bounty, full of exceptionally chunky tomatoes. The drinks, however, were hit-and-miss. Though the $5 house margaritas were much too sweet, the martini azul ($9.25) was spot on. A mix of Cointreau, Gran Marnier, Patrón reposado tequila, blue Curaçao, and fresh lime juice, poured from a shaker into a martini glass with a jalapeño-stuffed olive, the drink is Manhattan by way of Mexico City — fresh and original.
You’d do well to keep a tasty cool-down handy once the sopa de poblano appetizer arrives. The smoked poblano pepper bisque topped with pico de gallo and crispy tortilla chips left a fiery finish on the tongue.
At the other end of the temperature spectrum, the Mexican shrimp cocktail was a mild, refreshing, tomato-filled delight made Acapulco-style, with large bits of avocado and shrimp and thin wedges of lime and orange, served in a tall martini glass on a plate with plenty of colorful greens as a garnish.
Reposados’ entrées might never have been the kind that graced a Tara table, but their generous size certainly bespeaks southern hospitality — especially that of the carne asada. Usually made from pounded-flat steak, Reposados’ version featured a thick, tender 10-oz. rib-eye, a delicious and hearty variation. Equally flavorsome and filling was the mahi mahi, grilled with a calorific timoteo topping of pico, sautéed shrimp, and crabmeat. The fish was tender and flaky and broke apart at the mere suggestion of a fork. When eaten in the same bite as some of the fluffy cilantro rice accompaniment, Reposados’ mahi mahi was pure decadence.
If there’s room for dessert, skip the obligatory sopapillas and tres leches and head straight for the crepas — crepes covered in reduced Mexican Kahlua sauce, then topped with cinnamon ice cream and strawberries or bananas, prepared tableside. On a recent visit, our server got a little carried away and plopped a scoop of ice cream into the caramel sauce from such a height that a brown wave leapt out of the pan and onto my guest’s leg. Frankly, my dear, we didn’t give a damn.

Reposados Mexican Grill 1101 Cheek Sparger Rd at Tara Village, Colleyville. 817-577-7119. Sun-Thu 11am-9pm, Fri-Sat 11am-10pm, Sun brunch 11am-3pm. All major credit cards accepted.


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