Chow, Baby: Wednesday, November 28, 2002
Giving Thanks After the Meal

Every so often, Chow, Baby realizes how many blessings it has. This time of year seems as good as any to express public appreciation for the Fabulous Duo, Fort Worth Weekly Editor Gayle Reaves and Publisher Lee Newquist, who are so incredibly — on second thought, let’s save the fawning until the spring. Chow, Baby is due for a raise in April.

Now atop the thank-you list are the many glorious readers who ease Chow, Baby’s easy life by sending in dining suggestions. Chow, Baby knew it would love anything Eric Hamilton recommended from the first line of his comment (Letters, Oct. 17, 2002) about the Weekly’s “Best of the West-0-Plex 2002” issue: “I would just like to say that the people who voted Big Bowl as the best Thai restaurant are crazy.” Eric had a better idea, and after just one visit, Chow, Baby concurs: Bangkok House, 438 S. Cherry Lane at White Settlement, is next year’s Thai breaker.

From first bite to last, everything at this shabby but clean family-run eatery is fabulous. Not to get all cosmopolitan on you, but Chow, Baby was once a habitué of the appropriately named Excellent Dumpling House in New York City’s Chinatown; Bangkok House’s Thai dumplings ($3.95) — ground-together shrimp, pork, water chestnuts, and bamboo shoots in a won-ton purse — are better. Really. Crisp-steamed broccoli and strips of sautéed white-meat chicken tossed in a spicy peanut sauce made for a vivacious pad peanut ($7.95). Chow, Baby took home another order of dumplings, which were devoured in the car, and a large tom kha goong ($8.95), which got lost in the fridge for a few days. The delicately spiced coconut milk soup beautifully survived microwave resurrection, however, and large pink shrimp, fresh mushroom slices, and lemongrass were soon frolicking from bowl to tummy. Thank you, Eric.

Kudos to reader Jessica Landau and the Weekly staff for the reminder about the Parthenon. Chow, Baby hadn’t visited this year’s “Best Greek” restaurant, on the northwest edge of downtown at 401 N. Henderson, since Hector was a pup. Traditional avgolemono soup (creamy egg and lemon in chicken broth, $3.95/bowl) hit the spot, and a three-appetizer plate of spanakopita, moussaka, and dolmades made a more-than-satisfying dinner (spinach pie, eggplant casserole, and stuffed grape leaves, $10.95).

As Chef Michael Anatole Wehbe is one of Chow, Baby’s homeys, the Parthenon incorporates some New Orleans-style touches in its seafood dishes. The blackened Chilean sea bass ($19.95) that Chow, Baby’s companion ordered was rich and flavorful, and was served (fabulous service, by the way) with fluffy basmati rice and perfectly sautéed veggies. The bites Chow, Baby stole were delicious. Thanks, Jessica. You’re a — Chow, Baby was going to say “peach,” but perhaps “fig” is more in keeping with the Greek motif. You’re a real fig.

There’s more, but the one thing lacking in Chow, Baby’s world is column space. Tune in next week for Thanking the Readers, Part II. And send in those ideas now for Part III.

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