Chow, Baby: Wednesday, November 21, 2002
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
Bird’s the Word

Even Chow, Baby can’t eat half a dozen Thanksgiving dinners in one day. But oh, if it could...

Chow, Baby’s dream Turkey Day would start at 8 a.m. in the Frost Bank parking lot, 6115 Camp Bowie Blvd, watching all the crazy people work off a thousand calories at the Fort Worth YMCA’s 21st annual Thanksgiving Day Trot. Chow, Baby will bring the Krispy Kremes.

As long as the Chowbabymobile is cruising the West Side, University and White Settlement should be the next sojourn. See, Chow, Baby has a theory that the next hip-hot dining spot for the Target/Old Navy/Ford Focus crowd will be — drum roll — Luby’s Cafeteria. Seriously, think about it: It fulfills basic needs with a certain je ne sais quoi; its décor is nothing if not retro; it’s as cheap as particleboard. All Luby’s needs now is an ad campaign starring Max and 99 lookalikes doing a mod frug while gorging on pineapple-lime-walnut-cottage-cheese gelatin salad. Always a step ahead of the curve, Chow, Baby will don its new performance fleece leopard-print pullover and pick up a #3 Turkey Breast Dinner To Go (7 lb. turkey breast, cornbread dressing, giblet gravy, cranberry sauce, pecan pie, and pumpkin pie) for the low, low price of $69.95.

In this time of tradition, Chow, Baby also honors the old new food trends. Let us give thanks for scrumptiously epicurean meals to go, like Central Market’s beef dinner package: herb-crusted tenderloin with a Cabernet/wild mushroom demi-glace, Gruyere potatoes au gratin, grilled asparagus with oven-roasted tomatoes, brioche de Nanterre, and a pretty lemon tart (6-8 servings, $179.99). Add some garlic Yukon Gold mashed potatoes ($3.99/lb) for Chow, Baby’s idea of a perfect Thanksgiving-afternoon snack. To order, call Central Market’s Holiday Hotline at 817-989-4700. Quick, before Chow, Baby cleans the place out.

Even more retro-traditional than 1960s-style kitsch or 1990s-style opulence is 1620s-style welcoming of the harvest. And so, after a quick nap, Chow, Baby’s fantasy Thanksgiving would continue with an epic voyage across the Trinity to Las Colinas. There, in a hunting lodge crafted of cypress, granite, and river rock, dwells the noble Tenaya. This Native American-style restaurant gets a little theme-park silly with its dish-naming — Flaming Arrows (cream cheese-stuffed jalapeños), Cherokee Chicken (chicken and gravy), Seminole Fried Shrimp (fried shrimp) — but it works wonders with wild game like elk, rabbit, venison, and quail (Hunter’s Feast, $25.95). Tenaya’s Thanksgiving buffet dinner ($24.95, $6.95 under age 12) features venison medallions, rabbit pot pie, buffalo chili, and fried turkey. Call 972-550-1122 for hours and directions, and muse on the irony of a suburban Dallas restaurant named for the last great chief of the Yosemites, a tribe that was all but wiped out in the 1850s by cattle ranchers and gold-seekers. Happy Thanksgiving, y’all.


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