Chow, Baby: Wednesday, October 24, 2002
Good Eats Grows Upscale

As any ribeye-ivore knows, the real test of a steak comes the next morning. The bone-in ribeye at the Silver Fox, which has taken over the Good Eats space on South University, passed both the math and the verbal: At 20 ounces, there was plenty left over for a nice breakfast, and even cold from the fridge, the thick cut of tender prime beef elicited moans of mmm-mmm good. Chow, Baby’s day was further started right with a couple of forkfuls of leftover Dutchess (that’s fancy talk for “mashed”) potatoes with peppercorn gravy, crispy sauteed sugar snaps, and rich cream corn.

Consulting its amortization tables, Chow, Baby decided that $29.95, plus $5.50 for a big slice of chocolate ganache cake with fresh strawberries, wasn’t a bad deal for two meals. An even better bargain was the relatively cheap dinner that Chow, Baby — having previously felt the wrath of Hi Bob over steakhouse expense reports — made its sweetie order. The Flat Iron Skillet Steak, though only half as thick as the ribeye, was also cooked perfectly (just rare of medium rare) and was, yes, even more flavorful and tender. Chow, Baby deems this steak ($16.95 including side dishes) A CB Best Buy ™.

So the steaks are great, and the service is what you’d expect from these prices — they had a guy just for filling water glasses and a gal dedicated to pouring gravy and table-hopping proprietor Jason Campbell charming the patrons — but Chow, Baby needs more time. Time to get over the sense of having dug out its fancy clothes to eat in a very lightly refurbished diner. Time to forget how good the steaks are at Hoffbrau, right across the street, for about half the cost and no dress code. Time to take on a second job so Chow, Baby can afford to dine at Silver Fox after Hi Bob cancels that corporate Amex card.

Hillbilly Happy

Ginger Brown’s Old Tyme Restaurant & Bakery has prepared home-cooked kitsch at its modest Lake Worth Blvd. strip mall site for going on 20 years now, and it’s as enjoyable as ever. The faux folksiness of the menu will give a linguist a conniption fit, with options like fraish vegetables (choice of two with dinners), cold dranks, fried aigs, and a dish called Something Effe Mae Threw Together, but them that can’t spell can sure cook. Chicken-fried steak is the obvious pick here, so Chow, Baby chose the Kona chicken ($7.99): teriyaki-marinated boneless breast topped with cheddar cheese and a slice of grilled pineapple. It worked. The mashed were real and the fried squash came with ranch dressing for dippin’. Cinnamon rolls, delivered with every dinner, are marvelously gooey and wickedly sweet. Chow, Baby tucked two away for breakfast and sugar-rushed on mile-high lemon meringue pie ($2.79), served in a giant mug. Good to the last drop, it was.

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