Chow, Baby: Wednesday, August 25, 2004
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
A D V E R T I S E M E N T
You Mean, Like Thiago?

Chow, Baby’s newest server-throb is Thiago at Bonnell’s. “Server-throb” is a word Chow, Baby found necessary to invent, since it happens so often in these parts, to describe waiters and waitresses who touch Chow, Baby’s heart by being supercompetent and thoughtful and honest and not putting their hand on your shoulder. They don’t have to be gorgeous, like Thiago, or blessed with a sexy name, like “Thiago” (pronounced Chee-ah-go); they’re simply the ones who go beyond the call of duty. Like Thiago.

Anyway, back to Thiago. Shortly after we placed our lunch order, Chow, Baby’s companion (or, if she prefers, “boss”) was 911-ed back to the office. One of those emergencies that only an editor-in-chief can handle, a stuck caps-lock key or something. She was back in less than an hour; in the meantime, Thiago brought Chow, Baby coffee and a newspaper, pointed out the comfy couches, and shuffled the kitchen around so our lunch arrived no worse for the delay. During our meal we had only to imagine that we wanted something, and there he was with it. Quite the server-throb, Thiago is.

One bit of folk dining wisdom certainly applies at Bonnell’s: Order from the day’s specials. The soup special, a corn chowder ($4.95), was fabulously creamy and flavorful. The pork sandwich, also one of the specials ($8.95), was incredible. But you can’t go wrong choosing from Bonnell’s menu of fine Texas cuisine, either, especially if the tab is going on the boss’ expense account: Chow, Baby savored a beautiful organic-beef rib-eye ($2.70/oz, 10 oz minimum) with a rich whiskey demiglace and the most addictive thin onion rings in history. The steak was perfect at the time, and next morning the leftovers passed the cold-for-breakfast test with high marks.

On Tuesday, Jon Bonnell — who is quite the chef-throb, by the way — is off to the Big Apple to cook at the James Beard House as part of its Rising Stars of American Cuisine series. As final rehearsal, Jon and his staff are preparing the identical menu here at home this Friday and Saturday: six courses with wine, $150. Sadly that exceeds even Chow, Baby’s boss’ boss’ expense account, but anyone with the scratch can call 817-738-5489 to see if places are still available. Ask for Thiago’s section.



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